What grapes grow best in upstate New York and how are they transformed into quality wine?
The grapes most suited to the chillier climate of the Finger Lakes are sometimes lesser-known ones, but many quite popular wines grow extremely well. Riesling, for example, grows particularly well in the slatey soil of the region, and Finger Lakes Rieslings are considered some of the best in the world, far outshining California Rieslings, and holding their own quite nicely against German Rieslings. Chardonnays also grow quite nicely, as do Gewürztraminers and Seyval Blancs. Finger Lakes whites tend to be consistently crisp, with a clean mouth feel.
Many wine snobs immediately shun New York reds, stating that they're usually too sweet or overly tannic. While this is actually often the case with warm-weather grapes such as Syrahs and Cabernet Sauvignons, many red grapes actually grow quite nicely in the Finger Lakes. One shining example is Cabernet Franc. Cab Francs, which tend to be meatless and weak when grown in warmer climates (like California), have begun to find a real home in the Finger Lakes. The grapes grow fat and full, and the resulting wine is, also, fat and full, with smooth but rich textures and intense flavors. Pinot Noir, that picky little grape, also grows surprisingly well during most vintages in the Finger Lakes. On the occasional cold year, Pinot doesn't necessarily do so well, making it a bit riskier for vintners to grow, but the majority of years, it grows wonderfully.
Another strength of Finger Lakes wines are the oft-ignored ice wines. Because it actually frosts in Upstate NY, unlike in certain regions in California, most ice wines are made with grapes that are actually harvested from the vine frozen, unlike the "cheating" method of freezing them in an industrial freezer.
Sparkling wines (Méthode Champenoise) from the Finger Lakes are also wonderful. Because the flinty soil gives white grapes a similar characteristic to the chalky soil of the Champagne region of France, the flavor of Finger Lakes Sparkling Whites are often quite comparable to French Champagnes. Finger Lakes winemakers (like West Coast winemakers) are often non-traditionalists in their selection of grapes for sparkling wines, though, and some of the results can taste a bit too unique, so it's wise to make sure you get a recommendation before spending too much on a bottle.
Some wine recommendations:
- Lamoreaux Landing 2004 Semi-Dry Riesling (Multiple Silver Medals)
- Lamoreaux Landing 2002 Pinot Noir Lamoreaux Landing 2002 Cabernet Franc (Multiple Gold Medals)
- Lamoreaux Landing 2002 Riesling Ice Wine (Double-Gold Medal)
- Sheldrake Point 2004 Riesling Ice Wine (Named "Best North American Riesling")
- Sheldrake Point 2004 Petite Dry Rosé Dr. Frank 2004 Gewürztraminer (Gold Medal)
- Lucas Vineyards 2004 Seyval Blanc (Gold Medal)
- Lucas Vineyards 2002 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Gold Medal)
- Lucas Vineyards 25th Anniversary Methode Champenoise
- Atwater Vineyards 2004 Dry Riesling (Double-Gold Medal)
- Atwater Vineyards 2004 Vidal Blanc (Gold Medal)
- Atwater Vineyards 2004 Riewürz (Bronze Medal)
- Wagner Vineyards 2002 Vignoles Ice Wine (Double-Gold Medal)
- Wagner Vineyards 2002 Reserve Pinot Noir (3 Golds, 3 Silvers)
- Wagner Vineyards 2003 Johannisberg Riesling Select (Silver Medal)
- Wagner Vineyards 2003 Semi-Dry Riesling (Silver Medal)
Megan Romer, BellaOnline's Board Games editor is a native of the Finger Lakes region, having grown up in the microclimate between Cayuga and Seneca Lakes. She has worked in several area wineries and restaurants, and now furtively defends New York State wines at cocktail parties all over the world, especially when there are California Wine Snobs afoot.
