Uruapan More Than Just Avocados

Morelia the largest city and the capital of the state of Michoacan which can be described as being stately, grand, elegant, sophisticated, well-preserved, and colonial is one city in Mexico that I take pleasure in visiting time and again. On the other hand, Uruapan, Michoacan’s second largest city which was founded by the Spaniards in 1540 one year prior to the founding of Morelia and is only 120 kilometers from the capital city should never be described in the same manner- not even close! Why is it then that I also thoroughly enjoy visiting Uruapan? Certainly it is not to admire its core city’s hodgepodge of disparate and mostly nondescript architecture much of which is crumbling and covered with graffiti. Nor is it for its steamy subtropical climate which is more reminiscent of Michoacan’s coastal areas than the far inland city/municipality that it is.

One reason that I enjoy Uruapan is that, located in the southern portion of the Sierra Madres, surrounding the city is a hilly, agriculturally rich, and lush countryside that abounds with numerous types of huertas/orchards such as banana, orange, cacao, coffee, and coconut; most recently, the area has proven to be fertile ground for the growing of macadamia nuts. However, far and away Uruapan’s leading crop is the growing and exportation of high quality, primarily of the Hass variety, avocados. So much so that Uruapan bills itself as the “World Capital of Avocados” and every year in November and December for three weeks conducts a hugely popular Feria del Aguacate/Avocado Fair which is similar to state fairs in the U.S.

Yet, Uruapan is much more than just avocados and agriculture. The city is one of the country’s leading centers for indigenous (Purhepechan/Tarascan) artisan crafts. While gourd laquerware is the areas most famous and popular craft, it also produces glassware, woodwork, and textiles/embroideries. Annually on Palm Sunday at the city’s long and narrow lovely traditional main plaza, the Plaza de Morelos y Martires de Uruapan, is held a crafts competition that features over a million pieces of work produced by well over a thousand artisans from throughout the state; two weeks after the competition the plaza hosts a week long exhibition of Michoacan handicrafts. Moreover, located in one of the city’s few remaining fine examples of colonial architecture, La Huatapera which was built as one of the America’s first hospitals, is the Museum of Popular Art which houses a fine collection of regional artesanias.

Although avocado abundant Uruapan cannot lay claim to the title of the Culinary Capital of the World, or even that of the state of Michoacan, it does offer excellent authentic regional cuisine. Located just across from the plaza is the Mercado de Antojitos. There at numerous fondas/stalls you can find such local specialties as carnitas, pozole, corundas, tamales, atole, chicken mole, and cocadas.

Every time that I go to Uruapan, I spend hours at its two national parks. Located on the edge of the city about a fifteen minute walk from the plaza is the city’s most well-attended tourist attraction, the uniquely urban Parque Nacional Eduardo Ruiz, a delightfully eccentric (pardon the oxymoron) partially man-made natural wonder that can be experienced for the cost of about one dollar. There with the Cupatitzio River as its showcase and the clear natural pool La Rodilla del Diablo/the Devil’s Knee as its climactic highlight, this 542-hectare park along both cobblestone walkways and dirt trails features numerous small waterfalls (natural and man-made), the meandering flowing of the Cupatitzio, dense rain forest-like vegetation with myriad forms of tropical and exotic flora, numerous species of birds, butterflies, assorted insects, fountains, and inexpensively priced taquerias. Additionally in the park there is a trout farm where for a reasonable charge per kilo you can net your own catch.

The first time that I ever went there was on a Sunday from my town of Churintzio, Michoacan on a chartered bus and there were hordes upon hordes of like-minded tourists there. So, unless you really like observing the goings on of crowds of Mexican families and young couples more than you enjoy appreciating nature, I suggest that one go there during the end of the rainy season or the beginning of the dry season to see the river at its mightiest during the week but definitely not on Sunday or even Saturday. Just across from the park’s entrance is an inexpensive crafts market; of course that is where I purchased a colorful wooden avocado napkin holder to add to my collection of napkin holders for my ever-growing home “Mexican Museum.”

From the Parque Nacional Eduardo Ruiz the Cupatitzio River circuitously wends its way approximately fifteen kilometers to the easily accessible by public bus, taxi, or private vehicle, the Parque Nacional Tzararacua, the second of the parks that I always visit. Instead of renting a horse and horseman which are locating just inside the parks entrance (on slow days it seems like the many horses and horsemen outnumber the visitors by far!), I walk about 2 kilometers on the paved walkway until I reach and descend the 557 oftentimes slippery uneven steps leading to the park’s main attraction, the 30 meter Tzararacua waterfall; there is a little foot bridge that provides a great view of the falls plus views of the other side of the river and there is a pully operated cable car but I have never seen an operator for it. From there I take a relatively easy 20 minute hike on a well-maintained trail that leads to a smaller waterfall, La Tzararacuita. Within the park there is excellent birdwatching opportunities, especially at, near, and between the two waterfalls; there you may see such birds as American Dippers, green herons, acorn woodpeckers, multiple species of flycatchers, and Inca doves. Here too, it is best to visit on weekdays during the time of year, late summer or early fall, that the river is at or close to its raging best.

So, my rule of thumb in deciding which of the two largest cities in Michoacan that I want to visit is very easy. When I want to experience a city that is the epitome of colonial grandeur and elegance I head to Morelia. When I want to visit an area that has numerous natural wonders-some within its city limits- albeit in a very steamy atmosphere that is also culturally and agriculturally significant, I venture off to Uruapan- but never again on Sunday!