Beaded and sequined appliques add sparkle and dimension to any costume, especially dance and skate costumes. But sometimes it can be tough to find just the right color or the perfect size and shape. The easiest way to overcome this is to make your own. It's not difficult at all, and you'll find all sorts of places to add these beauties once you start making them. Oh, and don't forget all the money you'll be saving by not purchasing pre-made appliques. Their small size makes them perfect for using up scraps of fabric and small handfuls of beads. You can practically make them for free.Materials:
You'll need a base fabric. Sturdy cotton muslin or broadcloth works well. You can use organza or lighter weight cottons, but you'll want to use fewer stitches because the weave is so loose. I like to make intricate designs with lots of beads, so I choose a tighter weave fabric.
You'll also want a fine needle small enough to go through your beads. A strong thread, hand-quilting thread works fine. Some people use dental floss for beading, but that's not really necessary.
Beads and sequins of various sizes and colors and shapes are your main ingredients. The best looking appliques have different textures. I like to use beads of varying shades in the same color. If you decide to use different colors, that's fine, but be sure you choose highly contrasting ones or the applique will just look muddy. Choose purple and bright green, or blue and orange, or red and gold.
Finally, you'll need an embroidery hoop, some white glue and a paint brush or cotton swab, a design to work from, and possibly some felt backing.
The Steps:
1) Draw out your design. You can copy patterns off the Internet, from books or free-hand your own. Swirls, flowers, hearts, abstract designs--anything you like. Remember to take into account the end use of the applique. If it's going to be attached to a bodice, a circle won't work as well as a "V". Just use a pencil or pen to draw out the design on your base fabric, including the details you want to work in the beads. Then place the design in the embroidery hoop. (The hoop must be large enough to hold the entire design. Use a quilting hoop or embroidery stand for very large appliques.)
2) Sew on the beads. This is the fun part! I like to start on the outside and work inward, but you can work any direction you like. Use small pearls or other beads to outline the outer edge. Sew on one bead at a time, or use any type stitch you like best.
3) Cover the back side with glue. Once you're done beading, cover the back of the piece with a thin layer of white glue. This will secure the stitches and stiffen the applique. If your glue is too thick, just water it down a bit. You don't want the backing too stiff, or you won't be able to sew it onto your costume later. If you want your applique to be raised up on the final costume, you can add a layer (or two) of felt to the back while you're gluing. That will make your final piece more three-dimensional. It will look very rich and exotic--like you spent way more time and money on the costume than you actually did.
4) Cut out the design and sew it to your costume. Once the glue is dry, all you have to do is cut around the edges. Don't accidentally cut into the threads. Then sew your applique onto your costume piece.
Why go through all this trouble when you could just bead directly onto the costume in the first place? Two reasons: First, you can pull an applique off and reuse it on another costume very easily. Second, you get much better texture and relief from an applique, which makes your costume look better from farther away.
Give it a try! And show off your results in the forum. We love pictures.
