Cape Cod's Falmouth is a step-back in time, with preserved old Cape homes, abundant greenery and unspoiled views of Martha Vineyard. The important Falmouth Harbor ferries carry tourists and residents across Vineyard Sound, sounding plaintive horns as they leave the harbor entrance. I happily spent a few days relaxing at an oceanfront -- ok, sound front! -- inn, the Inn on the Sound, and moseyed into downtown past the boat-filled harbor twice for treatments in a child-free day spa. Ah, serenity mixed with wellness treatments, plus great shops, galleries and boutiques just outside the downtown spa.

Falmouth is about an hour south of Provincetown, so I combined two spa trips into a four-day vacation. At the upscale oceanfront bed and breakfast, Inn on the Sound, Innkeepers Jan Campbell and husband Howard Grosser prepare a daily, delicious hot breakfast, featuring their famous homemade cinnamon bread. I begged for the recipe and have it, plus they sent me home with a bag full of the delicious treats.

The Inn boasts “A walk along the beach begins just steps from your door and the scent of sea air greets you outside your window.” And where my first-floor spacious room featured an ocean-facing deck and chaise lounge with Siamese cat, Bob. Vineyard Sound and famed Martha’s Vineyard are in view at just a turn of your head... sits 45 feet up on a bluff, with panoramic ocean and Martha’s Vineyard views. The Inn is perfectly located for sightseeing throughout Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket, Newport and Plymouth, with ferries leaving Falmouth Harbor just half-a-mile away.



I had two spa treatments at the full-service, spacious, modern Bellezza Day Spa in the town center. The spa is open seven days a week, and it's an impressive sight walking through the front door as the spa goes on and on. Another lovely feature: the owner features art by local artists throughout the spa, adding to the soothing feeling.

A half-hour scalp and hair treatment treamment followed my perfectly wonderful Swedish massage by the lovely Patti Pulliam a in the childfree spa was superb. The full-service day spa is the largest one I have visited on the East Coast. The Bellezza offers treatments ranging from bridal services, salon services and traditional spa services.

The facial menu is extensive, and only fully licensed and accredited aesthetic professionals work in the skin care department. Facials cost from $90 to $95. Next time I will book the signature treatment, the Resurgence Renewal Facial. I always try the signature treatment at a spa because that's their "special" unique offering, and it's always fun to see what each spa promotes. The resurgence facial is a luxurious, medically advanced dual-mask facial, perfect for improving skin's elasticity, breakouts, and dryness caused by menopause or peri-menopause. Other facials include the Redness Facial, the Deep Pore Treatment and Repêchage Vita Cura 5 Phase Firming Facial, at $120.

Body treatments range from an activating scrub, to a Detoxifying Sea Mineral Wrap. If you are a slight bit claustrophobic, the mummy-like wrap might not be your favorite treatment. As for me, I enjoyed my Swedish Massage, as the deep relaxation soothes mind and body. This classic massage uses long strokes to reduce tension, soothe sore muscles and improve circulation. It had been a while since I had the standard Swedish massage and I loved it! Thanks, Patti.

Early spring is a quiet time to stroll around the picturesque town in a sweater and tee shirt. Yet being off-season, it's uncrowded so the quiet beauty and charm of Falmouth's town, shore, harbor and beaches, shine. Search Falmouth's sheltered coves, watch sunlit seagulls, stroll flower quiet paths, and beach comb the secluded sands, inhaling the salty air.

The Bellezza Day Spa, 221 Main Street, Falmouth, MA 02540. Phone: (508) 299-8300. www.spabellezza.com. For information on the Inn on the Sound, visit the website, www.innonthesound.com. 313 Grand Avenue. Falmouth, 800-564-9668, 508-457-9666. For information on Falmouth, visit the Falmouth Chamber of Commerce website at www.falmouthchamber.com. The Cape Cod Chamber of Commerce, Hyannis, prints a visitors guide, www.capecodchamber.org/GuideBook.asp, and tel. 888-33CapeCod.