Guest Author - Beverly Elrod
Since I’ve received several inquiries about blocking, I’ve decided that it’s time to write an article about blocking. The question, “How do I know whether I should block a particular item or not?” is a frequent one.
So, let’s start with the obvious. Any item that has a particular shape; hats, baskets, decorative wall hanging (basically, anything with a 3D shape-such as a village of tatted buildings or a nativity scene) will need to be blocked. Some doilies look better (in my opinion) when they’re blocked, while others look fine without this process. Some tatters prefer to block a table runner or table topper, while others enjoy them in their natural state. Maybe your miniature butterflies, flowers, grass and other objects for you card-makers? Blocking them seems to add a ‘crispness’ but, again, it isn’t necessary.
Jewelry, such as a necklace is usually never blocked; depending on how large it is and if it needs to bend with the neckline. Earrings are usually blocked as they are so tiny. But, beaded earrings may not benefit from being blocked. This would all depend on how many beads are used or whether beads are an accent and if the tatting is merely a method of holding together a large amount of beads. The more beads you use, the less chance that you’ll want to block the earrings. With a larger amount of thread, there’s a higher probability that you’ll want to block your dangles.
As a rule, edging is not blocked. But, you may choose to do so if you’re putting a trim on the bottom of a lampshade or if you wish for a wide edging to be place on the top of a lampshade so that it would stand up and ruffle above the upper rim (where it would be vital for the edging to maintain its form).
You wouldn’t want to block a tablecloth, curtains (although you may choose to block the valance if it’s one piece and it’s stretched smoothly on the curtain rod), a bedspread or any other large, flat object.
Sometimes I find that, although I may not want to block my tatted treasure, I want to give my item a touch of something rather than leaving it totally untouched after it’s completed. That’s when I find that a nice warm iron is just what it needs. Yes, simply pressing your finished project with a warm iron can give a doily just the right touch without all of the fuss of blocking it. I also find this useful with coasters. Blocking coasters makes them less absorbent to any liquids which might spill (and thus somewhat protects the thread from being stained), but this also prevents the cotton from absorbing and water from a ‘sweating’ glass of ice water. So, for my ordinary, every day coasters I also like to use a warm iron to give them a good shape rather than starching or using any other form of stiffening.
