Art Deco: 1920 to 1935
Derived from the 1925, “Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratif et Industriels Modernes,” the term, “Art Deco,” describes the period between the two World Wars. Influenced by the Far and Middle East, Greece, the Romans and the Egyptians, Art Deco rose like the Phoenix from the ashes of the First World War and infused the everyday world with elegance and sophistication in jewelry and fashion. Jewelry design was dominated by French designers, Cartier, Boucheron, Fouquet and others.
Hairstyles of every period throughout history are closely linked to the importance of earrings as personal adornment; in different eras, earrings are either wildly popular or disappear from the fashion scene altogether. After World War 1, women finally enjoyed freedoms previously denied them, and fashion reflected their emancipation. The popular choice of the day was short hair, perfect for showing off earrings; designs were therefore conspicuous and dramatic.
The introduction of cubism in the art world after 1925 brought about strong, geometrical patterns. Earring designs were predominately straight and angular-shaped. Long, chandelier earrings, one of the most popular of our contemporary designs, were first seen during this period. Diamonds and platinum were prominently featured in earrings. Colored gemstones were triangle, trapezoid, oblong and emerald cut; aquamarines, topaz and citrine were three of the most popular. Oriental jade and coral were carved in the oriental style for pendants, bracelets and earrings.
Retro Modern: 1935 to 1945 (Second World War Years)
Earring design was revolutionized in the 1930s with the advent of clip-ons. Wearing earrings became much more appealing to women who disliked the idea of piercing their ears for the sake of fashion. A vast improvement over the screw-fitting-style earring, clip-ons fit the ear much more securely and are still the most viable option for those who eschew ear piercing.
This period is characterized overall by freedom of expression; earrings are flamboyant and bold featuring yellow, pink and green gold. Copper was combined with gold to produce these fabulous new colors. A popular gemstone of this period was calibre-cut ruby and synthetic ruby, often channel-set. Earrings in this style are highly collectible.
Modern: Late 1940s to Late
The late 1940s through the 1960s was an exciting time for jewelry design. This period produced some of the most collectible vintage costume jewelry today, such as the "Jewels of Elegance" by Canadian designer, Gustave Sherman. Over –the-top, movie-star glamor and glitz distinguished earring designs, and prominently featured Swarovski crystal rhinestones in outstanding color combinations, made ultra-sparkly with the opalescent aurora borealis coating, named after the Northern Lights.
In the 1960s, color and texture exploded onto the scene for jewelry, and fashion in general, influenced by the hippy, flower power scene; colors such as day-glow orange, hot pink, neon yellow and lime were seen everywhere. At a time when love beads, Mod, Boho ethnic and handmade hemp jewelry were all the rage, rhinestones were still popular with many during the 1960s into the mid-1970s, but more associated with the 1950s glam period. These carryovers from the earlier decade were gold and diamond and diamond and pearl looks, gold-tone jewelry without stones, colored rhinestones and multi-strand 1950s-style necklaces with matching earrings. Large hoop earrings, still popular today, were first seen in the 1960s, as were drop earrings featuring brilliant-colored balls of faceted Lucite or matte plastic.
The ethnic influence produced earring designs with multiple dangles and exotic motifs inspired by India, Asia and Egyptian designs, which continued well into the 1970s. Popular collectible designers of this period are Trifari, Kenneth Lane, Accessocraft, Art, Castlecliffe, Goldette, DeLizza and Elster (Juliana)and many others.
The Art Nouveau revival of the late 1960s ushered in colorful, cloisonné butterfly, dragonfly and lady motifs on earrings and other jewelry pieces while a Victorian revival during the same period brought about designs inspired by the romantic era, only in smaller versions, such as cameos in plastic or resin, easily recognized as copies of the originals.
As jewelry collectors, we are grateful for the diversity of these periods in our history. There are thousands of pieces out there waiting for us to track them down; estate sales, auctions, flea markets, garage sales, antique stores and attics hold untold treasures.
