Bali, an island in Idonesia, is renowned for its Balinese people's centuries-old silversmithing technique. Bali silver is distinguished by granulations, or sterling silver dots, and sterling silver filigree wires bent into various artistic forms onto a sterling silver round, oval, square, rectangular or other geometric-shaped bead. Silversmithing is widely practiced throughout the island of Bali, with a concentration of silversmiths in and around Celuk, a village in the south central part of the island.
In the preliminary stages of the design, the silversmith uses glue from a native berry to attach the granulations and wire. When the artist is pleased with the layout, every individual piece is then painstakingly soldered. Balinese silversmiths create beads and also findings to complement Bali silver bead designs. Their jewelry-making technique requires enormous patience and skills honed over years of training.
The Balinese style is also distinguished by its use of antiquing, or induced tarnishing, which makes every design unique. Silversmithing in Bali, like many of the other arts of the island--wood carving, fabric making and hand-painting--is a family affair. Children often apprentice with their parents, passing on their skills from generation to generation.
The Balinese silversmiths use simple tools to produce their beautiful beads. Pure silver pellets are combined with a small amount of copper to make the silver stronger. A bit of borax is added to the mix, which helps the metals to melt, and burns off impurities. Once the silver liquefies, it is poured into molds.
Square molds are used to make a sheet of silver, known as plate, and round molds are used to make wire. A machine similar to a pasta machine is used to form the wire and silver sheet. Once the silver solidifies, the square blocks are fed through the machine into progressively thinner slits to form a a silver sheet. The rollers on the machine are adjusted, then the round bars are placed into progressively smaller ridges to create wire, then pulled by hand through round holes in a metal stencil.
The plate is cut with a saw into a variety of shapes and sizes. Metal stamps, known as plongs cut simple shapes out of the sheet. Shaping bowls are used to hammer rounds which are soldered together to form beads. Filigree designs are made by soldering thin wires together in iron bowls, taking the shape of the bowl. Samall interior holes are sawed into the sheet to create openwork designs.
Granulation, wire-work and cut-outs are applied once the base shape is formed. Then paste, or glue, made from sego telik, a native plant with fruit that is similar to little red beans, is used to lay the pieces onto the design. Once this layout looks perfect to the smith, a solder made from silver, copper and water is brushed over the piece, then heated with a wide torch flame. Once soldering is complete, the smith cleans the silver with the innards of a tamarind fruit and dips it into an antiquing solution to turn it black. The silver piece is then polished, the raised designs emerging shiny and highly detailed against a dark background, the essence of Bali silver.
Bali-style Beads & Findings
Today, "Bali-style" beads and findings are made in Indonesia, Turkey and other countries. These products are copies of Balinese design, and not made to the same exacting standards as authentic Balinese jewelry. India produces much of the simulated Bali silver, making use of the technique of casting which results in poorly articulated beads that are seldom made of sterling silver, yet often sold as such. These low-quality, low-priced imitations have in recent years sadly reduced the demand for Bali silver. Any decrease of interest in the unique Bali product causes great hardship for the Balinese people as silversmithing is the cornerstone of their economy.
Reference for Bead Making Process: Nina Designs at www.ninadesigns.com where you will find authentic Bali silver, made by Balinese silversmiths employed by Nina Designs.
