Guest Author - Beverly Elrod
Mercerized, non-mercerized, pearl cotton…there’s so many different types of thread out there, how does one decide what’s the best to use?
Previously, I’ve written about the various types of mediums one might choose, to use for tatting but, it seems that there are more questions that come up all the time. I don’t mind the questions at all. It’s when we share our knowledge with one another that we can learn new things and other readers may learn from our questions and answers as well.
So, how do you decide what type of thread that you should use for a given project? This is something that only you can determine, but I’ll help you to reason through the things which much be questioned so that you can make the right decision each specific situation.
First, let’s go through some hypothetical situations and see what we might do to make a proper choice.
1) The pattern calls for size 12 tatting thread and I don’t have it. What might I do?
Answer: #10 crochet cotton is very close and may be substituted. (#10 may also be used if a #8 tatting thread is called for)
2) Which really is best to use; mercerized or non-mercerized cotton?
Answer: Although I often say that you can tat with any kind of medium that you want to tat with, I would never suggest that non-mercerized cotton be used (although, you most certainly may use it if you choose to do so). The reason I say this is that the mercerized cotton is protected with a slight protective ‘coating’ so that the material doesn’t fray (or wear out) so easily while being used; especially if you must undo a ring or chain…not that any of us would make a mistake and have to do so, right? Each time knots are picked at, to be untied, or the thread is pulled from the center of the stitches, this wears on the thread and ‘breaks down’ the material.
I’ve sat and worked the same ring as much as four times because of trying to finish a project when I was just way too tired to be working on it. Each time I had to pick at that first knot to get it untied and then pull the core thread from the center of the stitches, the friction causes both your core and working thread to become a bit weaker. Eventually, you will notice that your thread is just a bit ‘puffier’ in this area. This is because the protective coating is being worn off. This also causes it to become increasingly difficult to pick the first knot loose.
With the non-mercerized cotton, the thread doesn’t have this protective coating so it’s not only more difficult to untie that stitch that’s mistakenly turned wrong and caused a knot but the thread will break down much quicker each time you must undo stitches. It’s for this reason that I never suggest that beginning tatters use non-mercerized cotton thread for learning and especially if they’re working with a shuttle because each stitch needs to be ‘picked’ out individually, thus causing greater chances of breaking and wearing down the thread.
Another choice of thread is a pearlized cotton. This also has the protective coating. If you’re uncertain how to tell if a material has a protective coating or if it’s ‘all natural’, one way is to read your label. If you’re looking at second-hand thread (as in an auction or at a market) you can look for a slight ‘glossiness’ to the thread. If making a purchase in person, it’s much easier to check this out if you hold the thread up to the sunlight (but not directly in line with the sun). Make sure you’re looking at a part of the skein/ball that isn’t covered with any type of plastic wrapping.
Again, I’m not saying you have to use a specific type of thread or that you can’t use a particular type; I’m only making my recommendations known. So, once you find the material that you want to use, give it a try. If, as a beginner, you decide that you’ve picked the wrong product, don’t be discouraged and don’t throw away your money by getting rid of your thread. Just put it aside until you’ve gotten more accomplished at tatting.
3) I tat a little tight/loose, do I have to use the thread size that my pattern calls for?
Answer: Absolutely not! Any pattern is always a ‘guideline’. Yes, I know…in order for your finished product to closely resemble the picture in the pattern it is highly recommended that you use the same products and sizes that the designer has written down. But, as the crafter, you have the skills and the right to alter this to fit your specific need. If you decide that you want a doily to turn out bigger, you may opt to use a bigger/smaller thread/needle or to tat a bit looser/tighter. If you tat tight, you may want to use a slightly thicker/smaller thread to accomplish the same gauge as the designer of your pattern. Always feel free to try different things to get the look/feel/size that you want to obtain.
