Mexico's Main Plazas

Regardless of its size and type- village, town, or city- virtually every community in Mexico has at its heart a similar outdoor communal “institution.” Dating back primarily to the country’s Spanish Colonial roots, these communities in their downtown areas have a main or principal plaza; in very small villages or towns it may be the only one there, like where I live, Churintzio, Michoacan. Whether these squares are called ”la plaza,” “el zocalo,” el jardin,” “Plaza de Armas,” or by a specific name like Queretaro’s Jardin Zenea or Mexico City’s atypical and huge 240 meter by 240 meter Plaza de la Constitucion , they all are that community’s principal gathering place for its citizenry and visitors alike.

While there are many exceptions to the following-especially the ‘plazuelas” found in small villages- a large percentage of these main plazas have certain common features. They have a bandstand, benches and other resting places, one or more fountain, one or more statue, one or more flower garden, paved walkways, and a variety of different types of trees quite often actively and raucously filled with such “city” birds as long-tailed grackles, house sparrows, or rock pigeons. Some of these zocalos features may be representative of what that town or village is famous for such as Zinaparo, Michoacan which is known as a prime obsidian source site having its plaza’s walkway artistically inlaid with that volcanic glass from its hills or the famous indigenous copper craft town of Santa Clara del Cobre, Michoacan with a copper copola on its bandstand or the mountain town of Mazamitla, Jalisco with a bandstand beautifully fabricated with wood from its nearby forests. Typically, the plazas will also have a variety of food and beverage vendors within their boundaries selling such items as salty snacks like potato chips or duros, peanuts, fruit cups, and sodas and local juices. Additionally, in larger cities often there are balloon/toy vendors, “street” performers like clowns or Zamora’s “old man” folk dancers, and shoe shine stalls.

Normally surrounding the four sides of these plazas be they square, rectangular, or irregularly shaped are also typical elements. Almost without exception, there will be a Catholic church. Again, almost invariably there will be a “Palacio de Gobierno” which is similar to a city hall. More than likely there will be one or more hotel. Reflecting its Spanish Colonial architectural heritage, oftentimes one or more of its sides will have portales/arches with retail stores and restaurants below them. On the streets there may be a multiplicity of antojito/snack vendors and or bread/pastry vendors. In medium and large cities like Zamora, La Piedad, Guadalajara, Queretaro, Aguascalientes, and San Luis Potosi you will see one or more adjoining pedestrian only streets lined with a myriad of shops and eateries.

On a day-to-day basis, utilized by all segments of the community, these plazas normally are occupied in varying degrees from sunrise to at least sunset. The prime spot to socialize, in the mornings and afternoons you are likely to see multiple small groups of men or small groups of women talking amongst themselves; in all probability they are simultaneously engaged at some point or other while there (or the whole time!) in two traditional Mexican (pre)occupations, “el que diran” worrying about what others are thinking about them while at the same time participating in “chisme,” gossiping about others. When school is dismissed, the students depending upon their ages will congregate there to mingle, to consume snacks and sodas, to flirt, and to play. In the late afternoons and evenings, often the plaza’s busiest time, there will also be many families, frequently three generations, relaxing and visiting with friends, compadres/god parents, and relatives. Boys and girls will be there for courting purposes. In larger communities there may be extremely well-attended weekly free musical/dance entertainment like every Sunday evening in Zamora’s large and lovely main plaza.

These usually well-maintained communal institutions also serve as multi-purpose centers for a variety of special events and holidays. For example, every year during the Easter season, Uruapan, Michoacan’s very long and relatively narrow main plaza is home to an annual two week regional craft show and competition while during another part of the year it may hold a book exhibition. Many of the plazas in cities will have yearly cultural festivals featuring all sorts of song, music, dance, and or art; one year while in the city of San Luis Potosi instead of watching the Super Bowl which would have been my normal boring and ordinary modus operandi I was entertained on a rainy night by the professional state band of San Luis Potosi and was more than glad that I did.

Although not exactly a special event as they occur quite frequently particularly in the country’s larger cities or capitals like Mexico City or Morelia, the plazas are the staging areas for organized and peaceful political protests, rallies, and demonstrations. The plazas during major holidays like Independence Day and the 20th of November are the sites of fiestas which attract hordes of celebrants and that normally begin in the early evening and end around midnight. In my town during these major holidays and during its twelve days of the Virgin of Guadalupe festivals in December also occur “serenatas” where adolescent girls walk around and around the plaza while being courted by their youthful male admirers who will throw confetti and serpentinas at them or hand the girls flowers; this time honored form of acceptable flirting is of course conducted under the ever-present watchful gaze of their adult family members.

For visitors to Mexico, its main plazas and surrounding areas are an excellent place to get to experience a fascinating and colorful slice of the country sociologically, anthropologically, architecturally, culturally, and perhaps even gustatorily. Although often having similar features, each I have found has its own unique "feel" and personality. Have a safe and enjoyable time being both the observer and the observed. However, please do not be like the ignorant tourists who book a room in a hotel with a balcony overlooking a plaza to gaze upon its beauty and to be witness to its constant flow of activities only to end up complaining about the adjacent church’s bells loud and incessant clanging early in the morning and late at night. You see (and resoundingly hear!), main plazas and church bells typically are part of the same traditional Mexican scene!