Padded Tatting Rose
The simplest method of padded tatting is to use a very large or heavy thread for the shuttle thread and a lighter finer thread for the outside. With just these two threads a thick tatted chain is easy to accomplish.
Another method of padded tatting requires multiple threads and it is necessary to rotate the work towards and away from you as you alternate the use of the two threads which are wrapped as for a chain spaced a little apart on the working hand. If either of these two threads is on a shuttle, rings can also be thrown off the padded chain as it is tatted. The shuttle thread carries multiple threads and must be kept taut. The double stitches are made first with one ball thread and then the work rotates toward you while the double stitch is made with the second ball thread. The work then rotates away from you back to the normal position and the alternating double stitches continue. It is a type of pearl tatting in essence.
This pattern is from the Needlecraft Magazine of May 1929.
CH (wrap) 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 - 4
compress chain and fold back to join to make the self-closing mock ring.
Continue wrapping DS and join to the picots as you encounter them and continue to coil the center.
As the rose grows switch to 2 or 3 DS between picots to increase the fluffy look. Make petals as indicated.
When finished you can fill the inside of the outer row of petals if desired.
Shown in the completed rose is a filling of one shuttle work. Shuttle join to a free picot on the inside of the petal leaving a short length of thread and make a tiny ring 1-1 close ring.
Leave space of thread shuttle to next picot on inner chain of petal and repeat turning as need and ending by attaching to the outer chain on the back side of the work. Or use any filling, even a needle weaving type if desired
For the leaves which radiate out from the rose the tips at both ends are trefoils R 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 close ring, joining where needed. Rings following trefoil at both ends are R 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 joining where needed and the larger rings on both sides in the center are: R 5 - 5 - 5 - 5 joining where needed.
Although the outlining outer edge appears to have been done in two passes, it is not necessary. Instructions say to use a "medium ring " on the inside and a "larger ring" on the outside. I would suggest : R 3 + 3 - 3 - 3 and outer edge R 4 + 4 - 4 - 4 to complement the size of the leaves. Attach to the rose and then pickup the picots of the center trefoil rings as you go around.
Another method of padded tatting requires multiple threads and it is necessary to rotate the work towards and away from you as you alternate the use of the two threads which are wrapped as for a chain spaced a little apart on the working hand. If either of these two threads is on a shuttle, rings can also be thrown off the padded chain as it is tatted. The shuttle thread carries multiple threads and must be kept taut. The double stitches are made first with one ball thread and then the work rotates toward you while the double stitch is made with the second ball thread. The work then rotates away from you back to the normal position and the alternating double stitches continue. It is a type of pearl tatting in essence.
This pattern is from the Needlecraft Magazine of May 1929.
CH (wrap) 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 - 4
compress chain and fold back to join to make the self-closing mock ring.
Continue wrapping DS and join to the picots as you encounter them and continue to coil the center.
As the rose grows switch to 2 or 3 DS between picots to increase the fluffy look. Make petals as indicated.
When finished you can fill the inside of the outer row of petals if desired.
Shown in the completed rose is a filling of one shuttle work. Shuttle join to a free picot on the inside of the petal leaving a short length of thread and make a tiny ring 1-1 close ring.
Leave space of thread shuttle to next picot on inner chain of petal and repeat turning as need and ending by attaching to the outer chain on the back side of the work. Or use any filling, even a needle weaving type if desired
For the leaves which radiate out from the rose the tips at both ends are trefoils R 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 close ring, joining where needed. Rings following trefoil at both ends are R 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 joining where needed and the larger rings on both sides in the center are: R 5 - 5 - 5 - 5 joining where needed.
Although the outlining outer edge appears to have been done in two passes, it is not necessary. Instructions say to use a "medium ring " on the inside and a "larger ring" on the outside. I would suggest : R 3 + 3 - 3 - 3 and outer edge R 4 + 4 - 4 - 4 to complement the size of the leaves. Attach to the rose and then pickup the picots of the center trefoil rings as you go around.
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