Needleart 1921 edging #7
"Tatted Edges and Insertions for Underwear"
These patterns are from the "Needleart" magazine Vol.8 #3 published in 1921 on page 17 and continued on page 68. These pages were given to me but I know little else about this publication. I would welcome any notes that other tatters may have to share. There are seven patterns of varying degrees of difficulties. The designs are intended for underwear but today's fashions would also be enhanced on outer wear as well.
The previous patterns shared from this page were #1, #2, #3, #4, #5 and #6. They all shared a feature in common, a paucity of picots. Edging #7 has both picots used for decoration and construction. At first glance it may appear a bit unattractive; it is, after all, just rings and chains. But it has such potential. Consider adding large crystal beads to the center of the large rings. Add beads to the core thread of the chains to create an outline effect. Or stack beads at each picot, 3 up beads on the picot and one bead on the core thread.
H Abbreviations:
R = ring
CH = chain
- or p = picot
+ = join
ds = double stitch
rw = reverse work
clr = close ring
SLJ = shuttle lock join, or lock join
floating ring = ch, dnrw, use sh2, to throw off a ring, dnrw continue ch
header/footer = a line of tatting used to attach lace to cloth
Note that the double stitch count is marked with colored numbers. ??? Red letters show the order of work.
Three passes are required to tat this edging. They are marked A, B, C on the diagram. The line of tatting marked B is actually tatted first. Use discretion for the all front or back side look. Begin the first chain in RODS and the rings will all be tatted front side up.
Line B
*CH 9
R 8 - 4 - 4 clr rw
CH 5 rw
R 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 clr rw
CH 5
R 4 + (join to adjacent small ring) 4 + (join to next picot of same small ring) 8 clr rw CH 9
R 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 clr rw
CH 12
R 4 + (join to last picot previous ring) 4 + (join to next picot of same small ring) 4 - 4 - 4 clr rw.
That is one repeat. Continue from * for desired length.
Line A
Attach thread to the join between the set of two small rings in row A.
R 5 - 2 - 5 clr rw
CH 10 + (join to picot of ring from line A) 4 - 2 + (join to next picot of same ring) 2 - 2 + (join to picot of next ring from line A) 2 - 4 + (join to last picot of same ring) 10 + (join between the next set of two small rings in row A. ) That is the repeat. Continue on.
Line C. For ease of working, rotate the strip of lace to work with line C in the upper position.
Attach thread with SLJ to the first picot of a large ring from row A. Shuttle lock join all chains in row C.
CH + (SLJ join to first p of large ring) 6 + 6 + 6 + 6 + 6 +
CH 12 + (SLJ join at the base of the next ring of row A) 6 dnrw
Floating ring using sh2, R 6 clr dnrw continue chain
CH 6 + (SLJ join at the base of the next ring of row A) 12
This is the repeat so continue across as needed.
These patterns are from the "Needleart" magazine Vol.8 #3 published in 1921 on page 17 and continued on page 68. These pages were given to me but I know little else about this publication. I would welcome any notes that other tatters may have to share. There are seven patterns of varying degrees of difficulties. The designs are intended for underwear but today's fashions would also be enhanced on outer wear as well.
The previous patterns shared from this page were #1, #2, #3, #4, #5 and #6. They all shared a feature in common, a paucity of picots. Edging #7 has both picots used for decoration and construction. At first glance it may appear a bit unattractive; it is, after all, just rings and chains. But it has such potential. Consider adding large crystal beads to the center of the large rings. Add beads to the core thread of the chains to create an outline effect. Or stack beads at each picot, 3 up beads on the picot and one bead on the core thread.
H Abbreviations:
R = ring
CH = chain
- or p = picot
+ = join
ds = double stitch
rw = reverse work
clr = close ring
SLJ = shuttle lock join, or lock join
floating ring = ch, dnrw, use sh2, to throw off a ring, dnrw continue ch
header/footer = a line of tatting used to attach lace to cloth
Note that the double stitch count is marked with colored numbers. ??? Red letters show the order of work.
Three passes are required to tat this edging. They are marked A, B, C on the diagram. The line of tatting marked B is actually tatted first. Use discretion for the all front or back side look. Begin the first chain in RODS and the rings will all be tatted front side up.
Line B
*CH 9
R 8 - 4 - 4 clr rw
CH 5 rw
R 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 clr rw
CH 5
R 4 + (join to adjacent small ring) 4 + (join to next picot of same small ring) 8 clr rw CH 9
R 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 clr rw
CH 12
R 4 + (join to last picot previous ring) 4 + (join to next picot of same small ring) 4 - 4 - 4 clr rw.
That is one repeat. Continue from * for desired length.
Line A
Attach thread to the join between the set of two small rings in row A.
R 5 - 2 - 5 clr rw
CH 10 + (join to picot of ring from line A) 4 - 2 + (join to next picot of same ring) 2 - 2 + (join to picot of next ring from line A) 2 - 4 + (join to last picot of same ring) 10 + (join between the next set of two small rings in row A. ) That is the repeat. Continue on.
Line C. For ease of working, rotate the strip of lace to work with line C in the upper position.
Attach thread with SLJ to the first picot of a large ring from row A. Shuttle lock join all chains in row C.
CH + (SLJ join to first p of large ring) 6 + 6 + 6 + 6 + 6 +
CH 12 + (SLJ join at the base of the next ring of row A) 6 dnrw
Floating ring using sh2, R 6 clr dnrw continue chain
CH 6 + (SLJ join at the base of the next ring of row A) 12
This is the repeat so continue across as needed.
You Should Also Read:
Needleart 1921 edging #2
Needleart 1921 edging #1
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