Simple Dainty Edging Beginners
A Simple Dainty Edging for Beginners
This edging appeared in the Coats & Clark Booklet #159, "Priscilla Edgings for all purposes," and is used as a teaching tool with their permission. C&C advises that this booklet is vintage and may not be available for sale. But do watch for it on the secondary market.
It is suitable for handkerchief edgings, household linens, collar trims and even on doll dresses. If worked in size 60-100 thread it would also be perfect for embellishing dollhouse miniatures.
Directions.
R = ring
CH = chain
+ = "join"
p or - = picot
rw = reverse work
clr = close ring
Using one shuttle and ball thread or two shuttles, begin with a ring.
R 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 clr rw
CH 3 - 3 rw
*R 1 + (join to last picot on previous ring) 1 - 1 - 1 clr rw
CH 3 - 3 rw
Repeat from * for desired length.
If tatting this pattern as a beginning tatter, bear in mind that the length of the third picot on the rings is important. If that joining picot (a side picot) is made the same length each time, the edging will take on a natural curve. If you are working on this for a round doily, dress flounce or collar, then this is to be desired.
However, if the project has straight sides then you will want a straight edging. To achieve this, make that joining picot 1/3 longer than the other picots. A small portion of the thread gets "used up" in the joining construction, so the extra length allows the edging to remain flat.
If tatting this edging for a hanky or other project with 90 degree angles at the corners, a little thought is necessary as you tat round the corners. The traditional method of turning the corner is to place a mirror at a forty-five degree angle on the lace already tatted and tat the mirror image. Additionally, a corner with matching or contrasting motif may be tatted as a separate piece to which the edging is joined as the corner is reached.
Actually, the easiest way to tat around a corner is not to worry about it. Just tat the straight edging and as it is sewn down simply ease the lace around the corner and tack down. But there are two other ways to get a good looking corner.
Tatting an extra long chain which joins back at the same ring is another easy way to tat around the corner as is tatting two or three rings together leaving no space of thread between them.
The edging may be sewn to the material by catching up the central picot on the rings. If you have a rolled edge sewing it on is best. But if you have a hanky with spokes, it is possible to join that picot directly to the hanky. However, I advise against it. The cloth of that project will wear out long before the tatted lace does. The edging which is sewn on is easily removed and reused. And tatting will last for decades.
This edging appeared in the Coats & Clark Booklet #159, "Priscilla Edgings for all purposes," and is used as a teaching tool with their permission. C&C advises that this booklet is vintage and may not be available for sale. But do watch for it on the secondary market.
It is suitable for handkerchief edgings, household linens, collar trims and even on doll dresses. If worked in size 60-100 thread it would also be perfect for embellishing dollhouse miniatures.
Directions.
R = ring
CH = chain
+ = "join"
p or - = picot
rw = reverse work
clr = close ring
Using one shuttle and ball thread or two shuttles, begin with a ring.
R 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 clr rw
CH 3 - 3 rw
*R 1 + (join to last picot on previous ring) 1 - 1 - 1 clr rw
CH 3 - 3 rw
Repeat from * for desired length.
If tatting this pattern as a beginning tatter, bear in mind that the length of the third picot on the rings is important. If that joining picot (a side picot) is made the same length each time, the edging will take on a natural curve. If you are working on this for a round doily, dress flounce or collar, then this is to be desired.
However, if the project has straight sides then you will want a straight edging. To achieve this, make that joining picot 1/3 longer than the other picots. A small portion of the thread gets "used up" in the joining construction, so the extra length allows the edging to remain flat.
If tatting this edging for a hanky or other project with 90 degree angles at the corners, a little thought is necessary as you tat round the corners. The traditional method of turning the corner is to place a mirror at a forty-five degree angle on the lace already tatted and tat the mirror image. Additionally, a corner with matching or contrasting motif may be tatted as a separate piece to which the edging is joined as the corner is reached.
Actually, the easiest way to tat around a corner is not to worry about it. Just tat the straight edging and as it is sewn down simply ease the lace around the corner and tack down. But there are two other ways to get a good looking corner.
Tatting an extra long chain which joins back at the same ring is another easy way to tat around the corner as is tatting two or three rings together leaving no space of thread between them.
The edging may be sewn to the material by catching up the central picot on the rings. If you have a rolled edge sewing it on is best. But if you have a hanky with spokes, it is possible to join that picot directly to the hanky. However, I advise against it. The cloth of that project will wear out long before the tatted lace does. The edging which is sewn on is easily removed and reused. And tatting will last for decades.
You Should Also Read:
3 Basic Edgings C&C 1488L
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