3 Basic Edgings C&C 1488L
Tatting for Dainty Edgings Coats & Clark Leaflet 1488L
Here are three vintage edgings from one of the old Coats & Clark booklets. They are all very basic and utilitarian. But they present an opportunity to create a variation all your own. #8315 could be a line of split rings, with or without beads, with the chains add afterwards on one or both sides. Consider adding on a dangle bead where each chain attaches between two rings.
#8315 Please note the original instructions indicate cutting the thread and subsequently tying the ball and shuttle threads back together. If second shuttle of thread is needed, wind it first. Additional shuttle can be added on as necessary. Leave the working shuttle attached to the ball thread (continuous thread method = CTM)to eliminate one set of ends to hide.
Every other chain in this pattern has no picots. This would be an excellent opportunity to create the chain by direct method, i.e., wrapping the ds onto the ball thread( in the manner of wrapping the bottom half of a split ring) instead of tatting the ds. There are 5 picots on the alternating chains which offer a chance to learn the use of the picot gauge. (The photo shows that the number of picots on the chain sometimes varied.)
Beginners will want to watch closely the space between the two consecutive rings. There should be no bare thread showing. Holding the first ring in the pinch will help.
#8317 In this variation of the classic hen and chicks pattern, the joining picot on the tatted rings needs to be slightly larger than the decorative picots. This will prevent a "strained" look from appearing in the lace. And the number of picots may be altered for a lacier effect also. The bare thread space between the rings could also be a chain.
Such a simple edging as this would be perfect to practice beading with beads on both the picots and on the core thread. Choose contrasting color beads for a striking look.
Edging #8323 was originally intended to be tatted in three rounds. The first round was all unjoined rings with bare shuttle thread between them. This bare thread had to be sewn down to the hanky first in order to continue the second and third round easily. It could have been done unsewn but would have been very awkward to hold and accomplish the joins.
The last diagram shows how the same finished effect can be obtained by tatting only two rounds, if the direction of the first row of rings is reversed. Instead of sewing down the bare shuttle thread between the rings, the rings are captured by the picot and sewn down.
This edging would also make a great necklace. Use the corner point as the focal point. Try adding beads in the center of the rings as well as as stacking beads Beanile style on the sides. Go crazy and bling it up!
Please note that the original instructions do not always match the actual tatting displayed on the front cover. Many thanks to Coats and Clark, Inc. for allowing the use of this vintage leaflet as an instructional tool in the online tatting class. (See letter.)
Here are three vintage edgings from one of the old Coats & Clark booklets. They are all very basic and utilitarian. But they present an opportunity to create a variation all your own. #8315 could be a line of split rings, with or without beads, with the chains add afterwards on one or both sides. Consider adding on a dangle bead where each chain attaches between two rings.
#8315 Please note the original instructions indicate cutting the thread and subsequently tying the ball and shuttle threads back together. If second shuttle of thread is needed, wind it first. Additional shuttle can be added on as necessary. Leave the working shuttle attached to the ball thread (continuous thread method = CTM)to eliminate one set of ends to hide.
Every other chain in this pattern has no picots. This would be an excellent opportunity to create the chain by direct method, i.e., wrapping the ds onto the ball thread( in the manner of wrapping the bottom half of a split ring) instead of tatting the ds. There are 5 picots on the alternating chains which offer a chance to learn the use of the picot gauge. (The photo shows that the number of picots on the chain sometimes varied.)
Beginners will want to watch closely the space between the two consecutive rings. There should be no bare thread showing. Holding the first ring in the pinch will help.
#8317 In this variation of the classic hen and chicks pattern, the joining picot on the tatted rings needs to be slightly larger than the decorative picots. This will prevent a "strained" look from appearing in the lace. And the number of picots may be altered for a lacier effect also. The bare thread space between the rings could also be a chain.
Such a simple edging as this would be perfect to practice beading with beads on both the picots and on the core thread. Choose contrasting color beads for a striking look.
Edging #8323 was originally intended to be tatted in three rounds. The first round was all unjoined rings with bare shuttle thread between them. This bare thread had to be sewn down to the hanky first in order to continue the second and third round easily. It could have been done unsewn but would have been very awkward to hold and accomplish the joins.
The last diagram shows how the same finished effect can be obtained by tatting only two rounds, if the direction of the first row of rings is reversed. Instead of sewing down the bare shuttle thread between the rings, the rings are captured by the picot and sewn down.
This edging would also make a great necklace. Use the corner point as the focal point. Try adding beads in the center of the rings as well as as stacking beads Beanile style on the sides. Go crazy and bling it up!
Please note that the original instructions do not always match the actual tatting displayed on the front cover. Many thanks to Coats and Clark, Inc. for allowing the use of this vintage leaflet as an instructional tool in the online tatting class. (See letter.)
You Should Also Read:
Lace of Beads #20 by Nina Libin
Nina Libin Long Picot Earrings
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