Daisy Medallion 1922
Daisy Medallion
This pattern was published in a 1922 Home Arts & Entertainment magazine. It is shared with us by Ruth Perry. Two other patterns were on the same page (coming later) but the instructions for this one must have been on a page that we do not have unfortunately.
Luckily, we do have the photo to go by. Here is my best guess for the double stitch count and method of working.
R = ring, CH = chain, CTM = continuous thread method, + = join, p or - = picot
mp = mock picot, SH1 = shuttle one, SH2 = shuttle 2, rw = reverse work
To avoid unnecessary cutting of the thread, use the method of climbing out from the center by means of a mock picot. The center ring is tatted with one less picot than noted. The last picot is formed by using both threads tied together to match the length of the other picots. Then use both shuttles to make a split ring and climb into the next round.
Using two shuttles wound CTM, begin with round center ring.
R 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2, close ring and use mp to climb out to the next round.
Using SH1 Split ring 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 / SH2 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 close ring, do not reverse work.
CH 20 rw
*R 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 + (join to next free picot on center ring)2 - 2 - 2 - 2 close ring rw
CH 20 rw
Repeat from * around for a total of eight rings and chains.
Note: if you had a helping loop to the first and last chains of the above round, then they will be in place to help you hide the tails after the last round of chains.
Fasten last chain at base of the split ring and begin the second round of chains which also have decorative picots.
Use picot gauge for regularity in the length of the picots.
CH 4(- 2)x 11, 4 + (join to base of next ring or directly into the space between the two segment of chains on the previous round.) Continue chain around and use the helping looks to hide the ends.
This form provides many opportunities to embellish the basic design with additional tatting and with beads. Consider placing four beads on the picots of the center ring. For the mock picot, it means that you will need two beads on SH2 and 30 beads on SH1 in addition to any other beads you might want to have.
Or use a line of beads in place of a chain, worked into the chain, or placed on the picots. Perhaps extra rings or josephine rings could be placed on the outer chain. Enjoy!
This pattern was published in a 1922 Home Arts & Entertainment magazine. It is shared with us by Ruth Perry. Two other patterns were on the same page (coming later) but the instructions for this one must have been on a page that we do not have unfortunately.
Luckily, we do have the photo to go by. Here is my best guess for the double stitch count and method of working.
R = ring, CH = chain, CTM = continuous thread method, + = join, p or - = picot
mp = mock picot, SH1 = shuttle one, SH2 = shuttle 2, rw = reverse work
To avoid unnecessary cutting of the thread, use the method of climbing out from the center by means of a mock picot. The center ring is tatted with one less picot than noted. The last picot is formed by using both threads tied together to match the length of the other picots. Then use both shuttles to make a split ring and climb into the next round.
Using two shuttles wound CTM, begin with round center ring.
R 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2, close ring and use mp to climb out to the next round.
Using SH1 Split ring 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 / SH2 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 close ring, do not reverse work.
CH 20 rw
*R 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 + (join to next free picot on center ring)2 - 2 - 2 - 2 close ring rw
CH 20 rw
Repeat from * around for a total of eight rings and chains.
Note: if you had a helping loop to the first and last chains of the above round, then they will be in place to help you hide the tails after the last round of chains.
Fasten last chain at base of the split ring and begin the second round of chains which also have decorative picots.
Use picot gauge for regularity in the length of the picots.
CH 4(- 2)x 11, 4 + (join to base of next ring or directly into the space between the two segment of chains on the previous round.) Continue chain around and use the helping looks to hide the ends.
This form provides many opportunities to embellish the basic design with additional tatting and with beads. Consider placing four beads on the picots of the center ring. For the mock picot, it means that you will need two beads on SH2 and 30 beads on SH1 in addition to any other beads you might want to have.
Or use a line of beads in place of a chain, worked into the chain, or placed on the picots. Perhaps extra rings or josephine rings could be placed on the outer chain. Enjoy!
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