“Unspoken Messages: The Art of the Necklace” is a very interesting and thought provoking exhibit on display at the Minneapolis Institute of Art. The museum explains, “This exhibition is designed to inspire a different approach to thinking about necklaces. “Unspoken Messages” puts the complex beauty of the necklace front and center. Like other articles of adornment, the necklace communicates many messages about the wearer, among them wealth and status, through the use of precious materials and elaborate designs. Necklaces also encode concepts of cosmopolitanism and worldview, along with cultural and religious beliefs.”

Curator for the exhibit, Molly Huber, found the inspiration for the show when the museum acquired this exceptional woven human hair and walrus ivory Hawaiian necklace from a Sotheby auction of oceanic art. It is a classic Hawaiian form that is not well known to outsiders. The necklace, called Lei Niho Palaoa, was worn by a man or woman of status from Hawaiian society in the early 19th century. It can be dated from that period, because of the walrus ivory pendant, a rare and precious item brought to the islands by American and European traders in the early 19th c. Prior to that time, whale teeth would have been used in jewelry to convey status. The Hawaiian people did not hunt for whales, but used the teeth of whales that washed up on shore making it a rare item. Molly Huber explains the significance of the hook-shaped pendant…”Its gracefully curving form holds a number of symbolic associations, including connections with fishhooks, chiefly authority and the gods.” The symbolism of the pendant can be compared to the tradition in today’s society of expressing one’s spiritual belief by wearing a cross.

The ivory pendant is suspended from a single very thin tightly woven braid that is looped over and over. The hair was donated to make the necklace for the owner by his family and supporters. To Hawaiians, human hair is a very precious and sacred part of the body because their personal power or life force, called mana, is located in the head. Wearing this type of necklace conveyed the message of a very high status – someone of note - in Hawaiian society. To them, hair is more precious than silver and gold.
The jewelry, engravings, photographs and prints in this exhibit illustrate four aspects of what messages can be received from necklaces: What is precious?, Markers of Status, Demonstrations of Belief, Quality of Workmanship and Aesthetic Choices….although some of the items can be classified in more than one category, such as the the Lei Niho Palaoa which demonstrates all of those concepts.

This Gowri Shankaram necklace (left) from the early 19th century in India is the anchor of the “Demonstration of Belief” section for multiple reasons. The gold, ruby, garnet and Rudraksha berry necklace was made by a believer for a Hindu shrine as an expression of devotion and piety, depicting Hindu gods in the pendant and clasp. According to Molly Huber, “Rudraksha berries have long-standing religious significance in Indian culture. Believed to be tears of the god Shiva, they have been collected and strung into rosaries as an aid to prayer by devout Hindus for thousands of years.”
This 20th century necklace from the nomadic Ida ou Semlal people of Morocco (left) is made of silver, amber, glass, stone and fiber. The necklace is displayed in the “What is precious?” section because the nomads wear their jewelry as easily transported wealth. The items used to make the necklace not only hold monetary value, but the large rounded amber beads are believed to have medicinal properties as well.


To the Ida ou Semlal people, a necklace like this is every bit as precious as the shiny jewelry that Mae West wears in her portrait taken by Edward Steichen.


For the Miao people of China, a necklace conveys a woman’s village and clan affiliation. Molly Huber explains why this 20th century silver Torque necklace is a significant example in the "Quality of Workmanship and Aesthetic Choices" section… This elegant torque is skillfully made of five graduated strands of coiled silver, with the twist radiating outwards in two directions from the center. These metal ropes end in scrolling terminals, clasped in the back by a flat silver band. Dynamic curving forms are frequently found the richly embroidered clothing of the Miao. Worn together, the textiles and jewelry create a complimentary aesthetic whole.”

To experience the thought provoking exhibition “Unspoken Messages: The Art of the Necklace” yourself, visit the Minneapolis Institute of Art now through September 13, 2009.