Gamla Stan, Old Stockholm

It was Gamla Stan. It could have been the castle. It could have been the charm of the narrow winding streets. It could have been the small mechanical device above a shop door that blew “bubbles” into the air. Whatever it was, it was love at first sight.

Gamla Stan is where Birger Jarl, in 1255, began the first fortifications that would become the hub of present day Stockholm. Staden Island, one of the 14 major islands that comprise the city of Stockholm, is considered to be the nucleus of the Old Town area.

If you can only see one area of Stockholm make it Gamla Stan. This bit of the city is a true star in Stockholm’s sightseeing constellation. This is one of the liveliest places to be both by day and night with lots of sights to see and plenty of places to eat.

The religious heart of Gamla Stan is Storkykan, the Great Church. Consecrated in 1306, this church has been the sight of coronations, royal weddings, baptisms and funerals. Over the years its’ shape has changed somewhat and it retains most of the Baroque remodel of the 1730’s. Renovations in the 20th century altered little of the building. The church has a great sense of presence and terrific acoustics. If you have time attend an organ recital during the winter months, held on Saturdays.

One of my favorite places is the Kungliga Slottet – the Royal Palace. The old movie “Desiree” starring Jean Simmons, Marlon Brando and Michael Rennie was my introduction to Sweden’s Royal Palace. This saccharine sweet story of Napoleon’s (Brando) jilted French merchant’s daughter (Simmons), who marries one of his generals (Rennie) is a far from accurate story. However, one of Napoleon’s generals, Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte did marry a woman named Desiree. In one of history’s more amazing moments, Bernadotte would also be invited to become the heir to the Swedish throne. Bernadotte would become Karl Johan I.

You can visit the “private apartments” of Jean Baptiste and Desiree during the summer months. Not too surprisingly its filled with way too much crystal, chandeliers, mirrors and furniture that looks impossible to provide any comfort. But as a slice of history it’s just perfect.

Along with the Royal Palace is the Treasury. Within its confines you will find a collection of jewel-studded crowns certainly worthy of being stored in a building with the name of treasury.

The Armoury has its share of weaponry, but don’t let its’ title put you off from visiting. Inside you will discover that the Armoury really has more to do with ceremony than warfare. Yes, there are suits of armor, along with costumes, carriages and all the accouterments of royal pomp and circumstance.

On a more modern note is the Nobel Museum which has been created within the old stock exchange. You can learn about the six Nobel prizes in an interactive and very entertaining presentation, including some short films about the laureates.

Today’s traveller might see the Old Town area as being a bit more mercenary that Middle Ages but don’t forget that it was the “market days” that brought most people into a town. We come by our urge to buy with deep, ahem, almost historical roots.

Gamla Stan will not disappoint the casual or serious shopper. You’ll find lots of galleries, trendy clothing boutiques and lots of antique stores.

Make this the first place you visit in Stockholm and leave lot of time for a return trip.