Ash Wednesday, Aschermittwoch, marks the beginning of Lent, Fastenzeit. A time that in the past meant keeping to a strict fast for six days of the week. Even today many of those who are not particularly religious still choose to give up something for the forty days of fasting during lent in Germany, and it could be anything from watching television, drinking cola, that evening glass of wine, chocolate or fast food or simply putting more of an emphasis on fish instead of meat in the diet.In the days when a Lenten fast was more closely followed with no eggs, milk or fat allowed and only one meal a day, it was ‘Good Mood Foods’ that were relied upon not only to stave off hunger pangs but also to stay healthy enough to work during the fast, and to lift the spirits.
One of these included beer, known as ‘liquid bread’ because the grain that would normally be used for baking bread was instead utilised for brewing beer, and was a drink enjoyed by more than the monks living in the monasteries who, because they were not allowed solid food, were the masterminds behind the brews.
The arrival of the pretzel was also inspired by the fast.
A bread made from flour, yeast, water and salt with none of the forbidden ingredients but nevertheless satisfying, and again it seems invented by monks in around 610 AD, with one legend telling us the shape of the pretzel was designed to resemble the position a monk would take in those days while praying, the arms crossed and hands resting on shoulders, and eventually its three holes came to signify the trinity.Then there are the German form of ravioli, Maultaschen, ‘Maul-taschen’ the name believed to come from ‘maul’ the mouth of an animal and ‘tasche’ a bag or pocket, and once more the creators of what is now one of the most popular meals in Southern Germany are said to have been monks belonging to a monastery, that of Maulbronn in Baden-Wuerttemberg.
Combining finely chopped meat with herbs and spinach the
monks wrapped dough around the mixture to form little square pasta pockets, Taschen, by this ‘ensuring’ that God, ‘who sees everything’, would not be able to see the contents and therefore realise that the rules of a meatless Lent were being broken, and in the process giving the Maultaschen the Schwabian nickname ‘Herrgottsbescheisserle’, a rough translation of which is ‘Little Cheaters of the Lord’.There are many different recipes for Maultaschen, sweet as well as the traditional savoury, and the filling of the squares is far from definitive but more a matter of taste, however they all have one thing in common, a thin dough, which is a type of flour based pasta dough, however buying prepared Won Ton dough might not be authentic but it works, and cuts down the total preparation time.
SCHWAEBISCHE MAULTASCHEN
Herrgottsbescheisserle, ‘Little Cheaters of the Lord’ - A recipe
Ingredients:
2 3/4 cups of all-purpose flour
1 pinch salt
5 beaten eggs
Water approx. half an egg shell per egg
9 ounces fresh spinach or package chopped frozen spinach
10 ounces cooked ground beef, pork and beef mix, or sausage meat,
(or for a vegetarian version very finely chopped vegetables, thick puree of vegetables, sundried tomatoes, and mushrooms go especially well with the spinach)
1 egg
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 tablespoon fresh bread crumbs (this helps hold everything together)
4 very finely chopped scallions including green
salt, freshly ground black pepper, nutmeg, optional finely chopped chili or chili flakes, thyme, allspice, marjoram and/or garlic
1 beaten egg white
5 large red or white onions
2 ounces butter
Method:
Mix the flour, salt, 5 eggs and slowly add water, just a little at a time, working mixture until it forms a dough.
With mixer or by hand, knead well until smooth.
Wrap dough in plastic wrap and leave for one hour in a cool place.
Divide the dough into 6 parts and roll each as thinly as possible on a floured surface, until it is about 1mm or the thickness of an average knife blade, and leave until it has dried out a little.
Filling:
Blanch fresh spinach for one minute, or heat frozen spinach, drain off liquid, chop finely and combine with ground beef, beaten egg, chopped parsley, bread crumbs and chopped onion.
Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and other spices to taste. If necessary add more breadcrumbs to absorb moisture.
Place about a tablespoon of filling in the dough at regular intervals, leaving some space between each spoonful to make small pockets about 1.1/2 to 2 inches square, brush spaces with beaten egg white.
Lay a second thin layer of dough on top of the first, and pressing and sealing the edges between each piece of filling.
Cut the dough with pizza cutter or knife to form pockets.
Place the Maultaschen in simmering water and continue to simmer until they float to the surface, about 10 minutes depending on size. Take care not to over cook them as then they might open and lose their contents.
Remove with a slotted spoon and drain.
Meanwhile cut the onions into rings and fry in butter until golden brown, and top the Maultaschen with onion rings when serving.
Cold Maultaschen can also be left whole or cut into strips and then sautéed until the surfaces are crisp.
And both versions of the pasta squares are delicious served with a green and/or potato salad, or with a sauce such as ‘Zigeunerart’, tomato bell pepper, or ‘Jaegerart’, creamed mushrooms, or simply served in a clear soup.
Guten Appetit!.......And Lent or not, enjoy your Maultaschen
